I'm in Gambia

Hi there. Sorry for my absence. The reason I have been absent is because I haven't been here.

Ok? Good.

I am in Gambia now – I got here on Tuesday night. I couldn't do a post on Tuesday morning before I left because the power was out at the guesthouse. In the spirit of continuity, when I got to my accommodation in Gambia, the power was also out. It was also about 32º and dead still. I barely slept because it was so freaking hot. The power came back on at about 2am and the fans kicked in, but then was off again in the morning. It didn't bode well.

That was a couple of nights ago. Yesterday I pretty much spent the day wandering around. I got a couple of sim cards so as to be contactable and to be able to call back home but discovered that international call rates here are really expensive. In Ghana it's very cheap (compared to Australia) to call international mobiles, in Gambia the price seems to be about the same as in Australia. So no go there as a regular means of communication. Additionally, I don't have the luxury of an internet connection here where I am staying so getting online is difficult. I found out that one of the telcos here has a 3G network which can be accessed with a USB stick for about $120. I went into the shop in Serekunda and they had run out. Maybe they will have more next week.

Great.

So, I got a sim from the company that has the 3G network and am using my iPhone connected to my computer to get online. Sometimes it's good to be a nerd – it's cheaper to use skype on my phone (about 2c a kilobyte) than to call internationally.

How interesting for you.

So, yesterday I found this out, found a bank and generally got lost around Bakau. Not generally lost, actually lost. I had no idea where I was. It worked out though. Good for you.

The power just went out, by the way – one benefit of using internet on my phone is that it keeps working when the power is out. Again, how interesting for you.

Gambia is quite nice – I haven't really seen enough to fully review it, ask me in 4 weeks. It is a lot smaller and poorer than Ghana. Where I am staying here also seems to have a lot more hustlers than where I stay in Ghana. Luckily I've had a fair bit of practice and can mention that I've been in Africa for a while so they don't froth too much at the mouth when they talk to me. The food is good. I have had a couple of helpings of Domodah so far which is rice with meat (chicken for me) and a peanut-based stew. A bit like groundnut soup for those of you who have eaten that. Very nice. Things can also be quite expensive here, relative to Ghana – the area I am in turns into a full-blown mass tourism resort in a few weeks, that could explain it.

Today I made my way out to an internet cafe that I used yesterday that was good. I had talked to the girl running it and she said that I could pay a one off fee of 400 dalasi ($16) and come and use the wifi with my laptop whenever I wanted over the month. First things first for nerds.

Anyhow, I was on my way there this morning and some guy called Boubacar/ Wally stopped me. He annoyed me at first and I was thinking of brushing him off – he was saying that he knew me and didn't I recognise him and I said I don't remember him where did he meet me? He couldn't answer my question (I'm pretty sure he hadn't met me) which made me suspicious of him. Anyway, I ended up talking to him for a bit, just chatting and keeping him at arms' length, when he offered to take me to meet his wife, whom he had married yesterday. Whatever. So I went.

He took me wandering through the market and some backstreets which was slightly anxiety-inducing but mostly interesting and we ended up at his house. Then came the catch. He explained to me that it wasn't polite to give or accept money as gifts but that I should go to the shop with him and buy some powdered milk to give to his wife as a gift.

At this stage I had a bit of a bad feeling but decided to ignore it.

So we went to a nearby shop where Wally told me that a big packet of milk cost 450 dalasis ($18). I decided I wasn't feeling that generous and gave him 150 dalasis ($6) which was still more than I was planning to. I also didn't have much money on me – I knew I was going to have to give 400 to the girl at the internet cafe. So after a bit of back and forth I made it clear that that was all I was giving and that I hadn't expected anything and maybe next time I would know and so on. He was fine – I'm sure he was more than happy with 150 but just decided to go for a bit more. Anyhow, I met his wife who seemed nice. I sat in his compound for a bit, talking shit, hearing about how he was going on his honeymoon tomorrow, giving him my email address and repeatedly telling him that I already had a wife and didn't need his sister in law, thank you. He offered me a coke and insisted I take it which was nice. I had a coke. So, he was fine really.

Then he found out that I was here to learn drumming and said that he would take me to some friends who played. I thought it couldn't hurt, so followed him. He asked me about what I knew and for how long I'd been playing – he got really excited when I told him I had been playing for over 10 years. He decided that he wanted me to play for his friends and surprise them. No pressure at all.

So, we went there and I played a bit of djembe blathering with these guys. They were pretty good but not as good as guys I have played with in Ghana. Well, different, but from what I saw, I don't think they were as good. Anyhow, I think I blew their mind a little bit and they wanted me to come and play with them on the beach and when they perform and stuff. I got some phone numbers and we'll see how that goes. I don't think they will be ones I want to learn from but any playing would be good. They also asked me for some money at the end – I told them I didn't have any with me and didn't plan to go there. They were fine, which is a good sign.

Then I went to the internet cafe where the internet wasn't working and sat and watched Youssou N'Dour DVDs and talked to the girl who ran the place for about 3 hours.

Action-packed.

So, that's about it for now – I just wanted to let you know that I got here ok and am alive. It's pretty full on and hard not knowing anyone, but all seems to be ok. I am getting the hang of this 'white man in Africa' thing.

As a note, I'm aware the photos I uploaded don't work. That's because I didn't upload them. Because the internet was crap. Maybe later.

I also took some photos of some toilet paper today. I will upload them sometime soon – I'm just sizzling them at the moment. Getting you all excited.

Please forgive the blurty, rambly nature of this post – I'm doing it quite quickly in the dark. I really do care about you.

Ok bye. Thanks for reading.